Monday, October 1, 2007

Inquisitor's Palace



Zoe and her sister, Doris, took me out sightseeing today. We went to the Inquisitor's Palace, the Maritime Museum, on a water taxi, and to the St. John's co-Cathedral in Valletta. According to our guide (a former student of Paul's in Anthropology, who I met at a party last week), the Inquisition in Malta was not like the one in Spain. In two hundred years, only 4 people were executed (a better record than for the State of Texas!). But there were cells. Still, it was interesting to see the place, which the Maltese hope to turn into a museum about religion on the Island. I was interested to learn how some English Quakers were held in the palace in the 1700s for three years before being released. Photos are from the garden.

Saturday, September 29, 2007

photos Sept 29






Here are photos of my new canine housemate, evening shots from a walk along the harbor, and a few from the opening of the university.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

reflection 1

I went to a conference last Feb. that included discussion on how to assess the learning outcomes for students who do international travel. One idea I found persuasive was to have the students write a reaction each day--something they saw or heard that caught them. They discuss it. Later, they can come back and correct, amend, or expand on the observation. I'm going to try this out for myself, though not every day.

Malta is about the size of Martha's Vineyard, yet has 400,000 citzens and gets (like the Vineyard) over a million tourists. If I compare Malta to where to where I live, up in the Lake Superior region, the contrasts are great. In the whole of the US-Canada Lake Superior region there are about 500,000 people. Houghton county is probably as large a territory as all of Malta. Malta has virtually no permanent, free-flowing fresh water. Superior, as Rudyard Kipling once put it, is a "fully accredited ocean," only made of fresh water.

All kinds of birds, fish, animals live near me--I've seen bear, lynx (I think), ermine, deer, moose and the many local and migrating birds. Most of the native animals of Malta have lost their habitat and it is bad luck to be a bird flying near Malta, because the bird will likely be shot and stuffed (despite rules against this). Malta does not yet have, as near as I can tell, hunter/conservation groups like Ducks Unlimited or Whitetails Unlimited. In the US these groups have been very important in preserving natural areas, educating hunters so that all the hunting laws are obeyed, and promoting the enduring love of nature. The question of the birds is front page news here in Malta and clearly some sort of important cultural and political change is underway. Right now international and (the very small) local conservation groups are watching the hunting areas to prove that the bird hunters are killing protected birds. This is a big problem, given Malta's membership in the EU. What seems missing, however, are groups like Ducks Unlimited who promote both hunting and nature conservation. Hunting, as I understand from living in Lake Superior, is a very important cultural event--deer camp is a regular ritual, and one can't schedule important meetings during the opening of deer season. My guess, as a perfect stranger to Malta, is that hunting has a similar place among some communities here. It was probably hard in the US early in the 1900s to changing hunting rules (and heaven knows we hunted and destroyed habitat so that many America birds went extinct). I'm now curious to know more about that US change, so that I can compare it to the challenge posed by hunting here.

One thing I am increasingly finding interesting about Malta is how it feels like a small town and yet has everything "full scale" in terms of an independent nation. Thus, one encounters diplomats, ministers of government, big and small business, all the disciplines of a major university, excellent hospitals, and so forth. Yet, everyone knows everyone else it seems, which is a lot like living in the Keweenaw Peninsula of Michigan. Like at home, I'll tell someone I live in St. Paul's Bay and he will tell me how a brother-in-law lives near me. Or, I'll be talking to a woman who tells me the daughter of a best friend is starting law. I quite like it.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Hanging laundry

I did my laundry on Sunday and then carried the wash up to the roof to hang up to dry. Suddenly, in one of those moments of memory magic, I was in the backyard of our house on Minnesota Avenue in San Jose, California, a girl of about 10. I'm hanging the family wash on our large, revolving clothesline with my Mother. This was the last house in which we did this, moving on to a dryer soon thereafter. I'd forgotten the pleasant feel of damp clothes gently patting me on the face or back as I put things on the line or moved them around. I'd dip and slide between pieces on the line, like a swallow. Like today, pinning them up on a bright blue day blessed me with cheer. Then later, when the sun had done its work, I collected the clothes from the line, and the scent of sunshine and breeze on my shirts again made the mundane lovely.

I do clearly recall that I got tired hanging laundry some days, and that it was not so pleasant on cold days. But this time, after all these decades, I finished the day with clean clothes and a visit to a summer day in my childhood when I was simply enjoying helping my Mama with the wash.

Friday, September 21, 2007

New Apartment--views from roof



Today I went with Stef and looked at my two great choices for an apartment. One, in Naxxar, is in a rather posh neighborhood and quite a nice, sleek apartment. The other is in St. Paul's Bay and is rather more bohemian and comes with a dog (and cows next door). It has good views of the sea and is three blocks walk to the sea. It was nice to have two such choices.

I chose St. Paul's Bay. The town is less purely residential than Naxxar and, yes, the sea mattered to me. Last winter, I would look at pictures of apartments in Malta and daydream about one with a view and a quick walk to the sea. I didn't really expect to get the view or walk, but I have. The pictures are from the roof of the apartment, but I can see the sea and hill from the rooms in the apartment. I'm delighted and will also soon learn whether I can become a dog person as well as a cat person [Hercules, the cat, lives in the flat on the first floor of the building.] I move in tomorrow.

another try on photos


Thursday, September 20, 2007

photos from arrival


I just succeeded in adding a picture, so now I'll try more. The next learn to blog step will be mixing with the text and labels.

Oops, I'm still having trouble, but here is one of Mdina.